Wall decoration with decorative bricks

How to lay decorative bricks with your own hands? The technology of laying clinker or tiles imitating a brick on the wall, laying from top to bottom. How to get around outlets and switches with bricks? Joints, how and with what, to grout between the bricks.

In this article, I will talk about an unusual technology for laying decorative tiles under a brick.
For many, the unusualness of such laying lies in the fact that I will not be laying bricks in the usual way for everyone from bottom to top, but on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Many may ask why such difficulties - I will try to explain.

In the usual laying of tiles, walking along the wall from bottom to top and reaching the ceiling, at the last row, as a rule, the tiles are trimmed in height.
 When trimming wide tiles, this is less noticeable.

And if you need to revet some other element, for example, the basement of the foundation of a house, and when the last tile goes up to the transition of the basement to the wall, it is not always possible to guess so that the last tile remains intact, most often in such a situation the upper part of the tile will have to be cut. And if it is a narrow tile or brick, trimming the already narrow element will make it pretentious and completely unattractive.
Such trimming is still possible where its edge, for example, at the junction of the basement and the wall, will be closed by some kind of ebb, but in a situation with interior decoration, trimmed bricks right at the ceiling, in the most conspicuous place, can ruin the whole picture as a whole.

In order to exclude the trimming of the top brick, and start laying from the whole, they just resort to laying from top to bottom. The bottom row of bricks is less conspicuous and much easier to cut or connect to the skirting board.

For the normal laying of decorative bricks, the walls must be flat and have the correct geometry. Who is interested in how to prepare the walls, make light leveling plaster, or complete alignment with the lighthouses and how to install the lighthouses with the help of kremmers, you can see in my other videos, the link to which I will leave in the description of this video.

In this situation, tiles imitating old bricks will be laid on the wall, these tiles have different geometries and cut corners.

This collection consists of different colors and shades, in this connection, I make a preliminary layout of the brick on the floor, placing individual tiles so that they go out of order and do not get confused in one place in one color.

Decorative brick-like tiles will be laid with seams, which will subsequently be filled with a special grout. To create seams, I use universal seam anchors.

For gluing decorative tiles, I use artificial stone tile adhesive that is anti-slip.
I dilute the glue so that it is thick, not liquid.

On a pre-primed wall, I apply glue with a wide spatula, after which I smooth it with a notched spatula with a large tooth.



Before gluing, be sure to apply glue to the back of the brick.
I start the row from the corner. It is undesirable to glue the tile below, and then try to lift it to the top, since the glue mass tends to return to its original state, the tile moved up in this way will most likely return back.
Therefore, it is much more correct and simpler to glue the tiles a little higher, and move them down, inserting a joint lock between the rows.

Pressing the tile into the solution, for better fixation, you can lightly tap it with your hand.

The upper and lower bricks, between each other, I lay apart, where necessary, inserting in the corner, cut bricks with a tile cutter.

In order not to overwhelm the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the seams, I use a laser level, periodically checking the vertical and horizontal along it.

In my case, the wall on which the decorative brick is laid has a doorway. In order for the door casing to cover the edge of the incoming brickwork, the door frame is brought into the room to a depth equal to the thickness of the brick along with the adhesive layer.

The laying of decorative bricks is done gradually, row by row, first on one wall, then on the adjacent one.

At the request of the customer, in the corner I do the joining of the bricks with a gap across the row, here whoever likes it.



I would like to separately focus on the question of how to bypass the sockets.

Some, coming to the outlet with a tile, install a switch on top of the tile, the overlay of which closes the transition.
 This method is definitely good, but it is more suitable for an even coating such as tiles with the same thickness.
In a situation with brick-like tiles, where the tiles can have different thicknesses, it is impossible to beautifully close the transition with a switch cover, where the cover will be adjacent to the tile, and somewhere there will be a gap.

Therefore, in such a situation, I preliminarily make a spacer made of plywood, which I install under switches and sockets. Thanks to such a spacer, it turns out that the switch protrudes from the wall by about the thickness of the decorative tile.


Further, going up to the switch with a tile, I cut it so that it does not reach the switch frame by 5 mm.
Thus, I lay the tiles around the switch, and the remaining gap around the perimeter of the switch can then be filled with silicone sealant matched to the color of the brick.

Having laid the entire volume of decorative bricks on the walls, and letting the glue dry, I join the joints with grout. In this case, a grout with a coarse fraction is used to join the tiles made under the old brick, in order to give the brickwork a natural look.

Having diluted a small amount of grout, I fill it with a cellophane bag with a cut off nose.
 

Too thick grout is badly squeezed out, so I dilute it to the consistency of not very thick sour cream.
It is better to join joints in small sectors, since a very dry grout in the seams will lose its ability, and such a seam will no longer form normally.

I fill horizontal and vertical seams, trying to evenly squeeze the grout out of the bag and not stain the front surface of the brick with it.

Next, letting the grout dry a little, I smooth the seams with the help of a concave metal jointing for a brick.

Slightly dried grout, no longer stains the brick, is pressed in under the influence of the jointing and takes a concave shape.

Then, after letting the grout dry for a while, using a thick paint brush with hard and short bristles, I carry out the final formation of the joint, sweeping away excess grout, removing defects, transitions and remaining traces of metal joining.

In such a simple way, you can lay decorative bricks. Such work is within the power of many.
 With insufficient experience, the main thing is not to dilute large volumes of both glue for the stone and grout, do not try to embroider the entire wall at once, and then you will definitely succeed.
On this let me finish, do not forget to subscribe, good luck to everyone and see you soon.

You can watch a detailed video about laying decorative bricks here >>>

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