Shoe rack - We make a shelf for shoes with our own hands, we use plastic swivel elements

Manufacturing of the rotary part of the shoe rack hinged drawer. We use ready-made plastic rotary mechanisms. Attachment of the mechanism, calculation of the width of the inserts, installation of rotary bushings for the drawer and the canopy of the facade made of aluminum profile. Shoe cabinet, shoe shelf, DIY installation.

A large number of shoes at the entrance to the hallway or a mountain of slippers, of course, is not good, and as one of the options, a shoe cabinet or, in other words, a shoe rack can come to the rescue.

Immediately, I’ll tell you my opinion, I don’t really like the option with plastic sides, the plastic is quite thin, it is brittle, and the geometry of the parts themselves often leaves much to be desired, in short, the plastic sides do not cause much confidence and, in fact, the sides are best made by yourself, Of what? From anything, even from plywood, even from the same chipboard.
But, since I had a set of plastic sides in my hands, as they say, we will do it from what we have.

All drawings of the additive mechanism for the shoe rack can be viewed by clicking on the link that I will leave in the description or attached comments to this video.

I want to draw your attention to the fact that the mechanisms are different, they can vary greatly in size, and the sizes mentioned in this video relate specifically to my case, but I think that any person, relying on the general principles of assembly, will be able to adjust this additive scheme to any size of his mechanism and cabinet.

It is important to remember that this mechanism provides for the internal, and not overhead, arrangement of the cabinet front.
In my case, the place for installing the shoe mechanism was the lower part of the cabinet, which has an internal space of 600 mm wide, 365 mm high and 250 mm deep.

I must say right away that my version is made for home slippers, but for shoes even 41 dimensions of 365mm in height is not enough, be sure to take into account the required height of the inner space when designing a shoe rack.

This cabinet will be equipped with facades made of an aluminum frame profile, filled with MDF, therefore, in order not to attach the plastic sides of the shoe rack to the aluminum profile, it was decided to make a false - a facade of plywood, on which the cabinet facade will later be fixed.
 This option will allow me to accurately install the facade after installing the box, eliminate all inaccuracies and deviations in the gaps, which can easily be, since this shoe mechanism does not imply adjustment at all.

So, we calculate the width of the box inserts.
We take into account the gap between the side walls of the cabinet and the plastic side of the drawer, taking into account the plastic sleeves cut into the side walls of the cabinet, set 3 mm on each side, and also take into account the thickness of the plastic sides of the drawer themselves, at my sides, the thickness is 5 mm.

It turns out that we take into account the thickness of two bushings located in the walls of the cabinet, where each is 3 mm, and we also take into account the thickness of the two plastic sides of the rotary device, 5 mm each. We get that 16 mm must be subtracted from the inner width of the cabinet opening.

 
The thickness of the wooden elements inserted into the sides is calculated as 10 mm, but in the absence of such material, I will make my inserts from 8 mm plywood, which is planned to be painted after assembling the box.

In my situation, with an internal cabinet width of 600 mm, the inserts turned out to be 584 mm long, and the width of the front part from the same plywood was 596 mm. This leaves a gap of 2 mm between the front and the cabinet walls.
The height of the facade depends on how much height space you need for your shoes. Consider the lower throwing zone and the size of the shoes that will be in the shoe rack.

As a standard option, for a mechanism with a beveled lower part, the manufacturers of these very mechanisms offer the following solution.
  The front of the drawer in the lower part should protrude and be below the mechanism by a couple of centimeters, then, below this facade with a gap of 7 mm, a fixed narrow facade is attached, which makes it possible to exclude touching the front of the drawer in the sweeping area during opening.

The height of the facade, can be any within reason, again, I repeat, it depends on your shoes.
I don't like this idea very much, precisely because in the lower part there is a place for accumulation of garbage with difficult access to it.
For a mechanism with a right angle in the lower part, it is not necessary to install a narrow fixed facade, such a mechanism with a facade can be installed close to the bottom of the bedside table.


Having made the inserts, I assemble the box, fix the plastic sides of the mechanism to the plywood parts with self-tapping screws.


For example. In my case, since the plastic mechanism has a bevel at the bottom, and the shoe cabinet has a thick front, and is located at the bottom of the cabinet, it was decided not to install the lower fixed front, but leave a small gap between the bottom of the front and the bottom of the cabinet.

Thus, I solved the problem of free opening of the drawer and the possibility of an accessible collection of garbage that will inevitably end up at the bottom of the cabinet.

After assembling the drawer, it's time to mark in the side walls of the cabinet, the place for the drawer mounting bushings.

Considering the thickness of 20 mm of the aluminum facade and the thickness of 8 mm of the false facade made of plywood, as well as the distance of 25 mm from the front edge of the sidewall to the center of the axis of rotation, the distance from the edge to the center of the hole is 53 mm.

The distance from the bottom of the cabinet to the center of the hole, in each case, must be calculated individually, depending on the thickness of the front and the version of the plastic side mechanism.
In my case, with the height of the aluminum facade 350mm and the gap between the lower part of the facade and the bottom of the cabinet 13 mm, the height from the bottom of the bedside table to the center of the hole was 150mm

After marking, space for the bushings, I drill out the seats using a 20 mm Forstner drill, and install the bushings into the cabinet walls, for the secure fit of the bushings, I use liquid nails.


After that, I insert the shoe rack into its place, through the plastic sides I fix the box to the cabinet walls with the help of mating sleeves.

Next, I install the bushings that fix the box in the open-closed position, for this, the marking can be done right on the spot.
To fix the box in a closed state, you will need to install a lock.
After that, using double-sided adhesive tape, right in place, observing all the gaps, I glue the facade onto the plywood of the box, and then I fix it with self-tapping screws.
It remains to put the handle and the inner partition of the shoe rack, after which you can use it.

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